Mt. Baker, North Ridge

Location

Bellingham, Washington

Group Size

1 people per guide

Duration

60 hours

Difficulty

Intermediate

North Ridge – One of the best snow and ice climbs in the United States. This is a demanding route with prior ice climbing experience necessary. One of the factors that making this climb so enticing is its relative safety to technical difficulty ratio. Many climbs like this face objective hazards that are largely out of the control of the climber.  The North Ridge however, for the competent climber, offers a lower stress experience free of avalanche and ice-fall hazard. As with all ice climbs, conditions play a large role in the feasibility of the climb. The route begins as the Coleman Deming and then traverses under the Coleman Headwall before gaining the ridge. Crevasse navigation is the biggest challenge on this part of the route. Once on the ridge, climbers will enjoy steep but relatively easy snow/ice climbing on a well defined ridge on the approach to the summit ice cap. When the cap is reached the climb ascends 50-70 degree ice for 3 – 6 pitches to the summit and is the most spectacular section of the route. Swinging tools at 10,000 feet as the early morning beams of sun shoot out over the summit can be a religious experience in the mountain world. To descend climbers follow the Coleman-Deming route back to camp for coffee and a candy bar before the walk back to the car.

Day 1: Hike to Base Camp & Glacier School

Day 2: Summit Bid, and back to camp

Day 3: Hike out to cars