Brian Johnson

Access the Alpine
Bellingham, Washington
Upward Transitions Institute
,

About me

Brian is originally from upstate New York where he began climbing at an early age with his parents. He started his guiding career in 2013 spending his summers in Colorado in between finishing up his undergrad degree from the University at Buffalo. After college, he moved to the beautiful sandstone walls of Moab, Utah to pursue a full-time career in guiding. Having done many international climbing trips Brian has been able to climb and ski some of Central and South America's most classic volcanos. Brian now splits his time between summers in the high glaciers of Washington state and the rivers and towers of the western US desert. He then often spends the winters scaling technical rock routes in Mexico. Utah: Ancient Art (20+ Ascents) Castleton Tower (10+ Ascents via 3 different routes) Washington: Mount Baker (10+ Ascents via 3 different routes) Sahale Peak (via Quien Sabe Glacier) Torment - Forbidden Traverse Ptarmigan Traverse International: Timewave Zero When You're Lost in the Wild (Second Ascent) Illiniza Norte (17,267ft/5263m) Ski descent of Cayambe (18,996ft/5790m) Ski descent of Pico de Orizaba (18,491ft/5636m) Maderas and Concepcion

Certifications

AMGA Certified Rock Guide


AMGA Single Pitch Instructor


AIARE 1 + 2 + Avalanche Rescue Course


Wilderness First Responder


Reviews

5.0 (13 reviews)

Trip: 2-Day Crevasse Rescue Course

With Brian J. on September 11, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

Brian was a top-notch instructor. He was able to customize the curriculum to the needs of our group. He allowed us to perform as many repetitions as we wanted without us feeling rushed. I felt like I left the 2 day crevasse rescue training with a solid understanding of the fundamentals that I can practice and develop further. In addition, Brian was very genuine person and we had great conversations with him.

By Kevin D. on September 13, 2024

Trip: 2-Day Crevasse Rescue Course

With Brian J. on September 11, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

We had a great time and learned so much! No question was too big or too small for Brian, he was always ready to meet us where we were at and teach us what we were curious about. He was extremely capable of assessing how we were doing and what we needed more or less time on. He had such a great attitude and energy the entire time which made even the constant rain on day one a good time. He clearly knows his stuff and the area and brings passion into what he does. Def recommend!

By Rachel J. on September 13, 2024

Trip: 2-Day Crevasse Rescue Course

With Brian J. on August 14, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

Super informative, highly recommend!

By Chris C. on September 01, 2024

Trip: 2-Day Crevasse Rescue Course

With Brian J. on July 14, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

Fantastic course. Brian is awesome! Great teacher, a wealth of knowledge and genuinely fun to spend time with. 10/10 would recommend this course.

By Alan S. on July 16, 2024

Trip: 2-Day Crevasse Rescue Course

With Brian J. on July 03, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

By Sydny T. on July 12, 2024

Trip: Monthly Mountain Monday

With Brian J. on July 08, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

By Stuart H. on July 09, 2024

Trip: 2-Day Crevasse Rescue Course

With Brian J. on June 15, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

I met Brian on a free zoom chat about crevasse safety. I instantly appreciated his ability to educate clearly on important topics while also not taking himself too seriously. I decided to book a 2-day crevasse rescue course with him June 15-16 (Baker mtn Easton route). I had done some hands-on practice in a larger group environment earlier in the year. At that time I didn’t have a good grasp on basic knots and gear, and I didn’t own any myself. It felt like drinking from a water hose a bit. I think it was a good first pass and I sort of treated it that way. Even with all the reading and videos I had watched, I did not feel confident in setting up a rescue system by myself. I wanted to change that.

The weekend weather was looking less than ideal with moderate precipitation forecasted both days. Brian called me to talk things through and we did a gear check in advance. He was available to run any Q’s by and I felt good going into the trip knowing he would be there to help navigate any problems that might arise. There were 2 other clients and Brian for a total of 4. I was very pleased with the vibes of the group and impressed by everyone’s experience levels and ability to connect quickly. The hike into camp was the start of some basic learning about glaciers, landmarks, hazards. We opted for high camp at Sandy Camp which would allow for some better learning in a snowy environment.

We got to practice some skills for setting up a camp in snow which was fun and helpful. Brian started us off with the basics (stepping, gear, knots) which he explained we would be building on the next day during full rescue practice. I liked the style. It was a gentle step in, not overwhelming at all. The 2nd day we put together the basics and did simulated crevasse rescue over a steep slope. Everyone got a turn playing the fallen climber and reps setting the drop C and Z pulley haul systems. Brian was as hands-off as he could be, letting us going through the motions. He gave feedback as needed and was able to communicate well to different learning abilities. Lastly, he showed us how to rappel and ascend in the event we needed to clip a rescue rope to an unconscious victim. He had us take a video of another scenario and encouraged us to practice and practice, not to rely on a one-time training. I was very pleased with the trip! It was a blast and the price is a steal. I feel much more confident in setting up a rescue haul system and avoiding putting myself at risk of being in that scenario in the first place. I have already reviewed the haul system with my team prior to our recent Baker summit and was able to do so in a first attempt. Some of things I think Brian did best are: - Create a comfortable safe environment to ask Qs without feeling dumb or like you’re wasting someone’s time. - His style felt 100% himself and not scripted or forced. - He checked in regularly to gauge how we were doing and was able to direct us to our next task with plenty of notice (we had appropriate amounts of downtime between learning to rest and fuel.) I highly recommend Access the Alpine and wish Brian the best with his guiding business!

By Jeremy S. on June 21, 2024

Trip: Crevasse Rescue 1-Day

With Brian J., Victoria G. on June 01, 2024

Company: Upward Transitions Institute

Great day! Learned a lot and left feeling confident with all my questions answered. Very knowledgeable instructors who were great at breaking down material!

By Magdalena W. on June 02, 2024

Trip: Monthly Mountain Monday

With Brian J. on April 15, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

Excellent guide and presentation. Very glad to have gotten that knowledge and perspective for rock climbing tools to facilitate a rescue.

By Orion H. on April 24, 2024

Trip: Monthly Mountain Monday

With Brian J. on April 15, 2024

Company: Access the Alpine

This was a great opportunity to learn from Brian. I really appreciated him sharing all his AWESOME knowledge and experience.

By Rick S. on April 18, 2024

Trip: Monthly Mountain Monday

With Brian J. on November 13, 2023

Company: Access the Alpine

By Benjamin B. on November 23, 2023