Mt. Baker Courses: 3 Day, 5 Day, & North Ridge
Location
Sedro-Woolley, Washington
Group Size
3 people per guide
Duration
3 days
Location
Sedro-Woolley, Washington
Group Size
3 people per guide
Duration
3 days
3 DAY COURSE
The three day itinerary for a Mt. Baker ascent is best for those who want a little more time on the mountain for learning, climbing, rest, and experence. In addition to a summit bid, this itinerary allows for a glacier skills clinic. This clinic may cover skills like: snow anchors, ice anchors, hauling systems, rope travel and glacier navigation.
Day before departure: Meet at 3pm for pre-trip meeting.
Day 1: Hike to Base Camp & Glacier Skills
Day 2: Summit Bid and back to Base Camp
Day 3: Descend to Cars
The three day trip could take place on one of the following routes:
Easton Glacier – defined by gentle rising slopes and large expansive glaciers the Easton Glacier is one of the most moderate of all glacier routes in the range, making it an excellent choice for those new to glacier travel. All these factors that make it so appealing, also provide the climber with significant challenges. The climber will see and navigate their way around large crevasse features as large as Mt. Rainer or any other big mountain. This route also takes the climber by the Sherman Creator, a large steam vent.
Squak Glacier - Begins at the same parking area as the Easton Glacier, however it takes a more direct route to the summit. Although this route is shorter in milage than the Easton, it has the same elevation gain. This steeper version of the south side trade route, ascends a ridge line that begins in the trees and emerges at the toe of the glacier and Crag Camp where you will spend the night and get some training in on the nearby glacier. On your summit bid, you will pass under Sherman Peak and pass through the interface of the Squak and Easton Glacier. Once on the Easton you will ascend the Roman wall on your way to the summit.
Both routes converge to face the “Roman Wall”, the most significant challenge of the climb. From the altitude of approximately 9,000 feet to the summit at 10,700 feet, climbers engage with a steep glacier climb.
Final meeting place TBD. Near Sedro-Wooley, WA.
___________________________________________________
5 DAY COURSE
This comprehensive course will cover many of the essential aspects of mountaineering needed to climb entry level alpine climbs in the lower 48. Topics include: Basic Rock Craft (from anchor building to belaying), Ice Climbing, Crevasse Rescue, glacier/snow camping and a summit bid of Mt. Baker. The 5 day itinerary allows for plenty of time to practice new skills and even makes room for the possibility of poor weather. This course is perfect for the climber who is looking to expand their skills beyond the rock crag and start learning the art or Alpinism.
Day before departure: Meet at 3pm for pre-trip meeting.
Day 1: Mt. Erie, Anacortes WA - Rock Craft (stay in your own lodging this night)
Day 2: Meet & Hike to Base Camp - Dry Glacier Movement
Day 3: Crevasse Rescue
Day 4: Summit Bid and return to camp
Day 5: Hike out and Return to town. (This day also allow for extra time for a summit push in the event of poor weather)
The rock portion of the trip will take place at Mt. Erie. Located on the beautiful Anacortes Island in the San Juan Rain Shadow, this is an excelent venue for practicing alpine rock craft in a controlled setting.
The mountain portion of the will take place on one of the following routes:
Easton Glacier – defined by gentle rising slopes and large expansive glaciers the Easton Glacier is one of the most moderate of all glacier routes in the range, making it an excellent choice for those new to glacier travel. All these factors that make it so appealing, also provide the climber with significant challenges. The climber will see and navigate their way around large crevasse features as large as Mt. Rainer or any other big mountain. This route also takes the climber by the Sherman Creator, a large steam vent.
Squak Glacier - Begins at the same parking area at the Easton Glacier, however it takes a more direct route to the summit. Although this is shorter in milage than the easton, it has the same elevation gain. This steeper version of the south side trade route, asends a ridge line that begins in the trees and emerges at the toe of the glacier and Crag Camp where you will spend the night and get some training in on the nearby glacier. On your summit bid, you will pass udnder Sherman Peak and pass through the interface of the Squak and Easton Glacier. Once on the Easton you will ascend the Roman wall on your way to the summit.
Coleman Deming – is probably the most popular route on the mountain due to its moderate level of challenge. Climbers start up the gentle slopes of the Coleman Glacier as they make their way to the col that divides the Coleman from the Deming.
From the col you will turn to to face the “Roman Wall”, the most significant challenge of the climb. From the altitude of approximately 9,000 feet to the summit at 10,700 feet, climbers engage with a steep glacier climb.
___________________________________________________
NORTH RIDGE CLIMB
North Ridge – One of the best snow and ice climbs in the United States. This is a demanding route with prior ice climbing experience necessary. One of the factors that making this climb so enticing is its ice climbing. Many volcano climbs are walk-ups with minimal actual ice climbing involved. The North Ridge however, for the competent climber, offers a higher angle experence where climbers are required to swing their ice tools. As with all ice climbs, conditions play a large role in the feasibility of the climb.
The route begins as the Coleman Deming and then traverses under the Coleman Headwall before gaining the ridge. Crevasse navigation is the biggest challenge on this part of the route. Once on the ridge, climbers will enjoy steep but relatively easy snow/ice climbing on a well defined ridge on the approach to the summit ice cap. When the cap is reached the climb ascends 50-70 degree ice for 3 – 6 pitches to the summit and is the most spectacular section of the route. Swinging tools at 10,000 feet as the early morning beams of sun shoot out over the summit can be a religious experience in the mountain world. To descend climbers follow the Coleman-Deming route back to camp for coffee and a candy bar before the walk back to the car.
Day 1: Hike to Base Camp
Day 2: Summit Bid, and back to camp (possible hike out to cars)
Day 3: Hike out to cars
