Advanced Rescue (Mt. Erie, WA)

Location

Anacortes, Washington

Group Size

4 people per guide

Duration

8 hours

This clinic builds upon basic rescue skills to solve problems in multipitch terrain. 

The long-anticipated sequel to our popular Self Rescue course: Advanced Rescue teaches you to solve more complex problems with less equipment. When a team is multiple pitches off the ground and someone gets hurt, getting down safely often involves multiple skills in combination. We’ll practice using load transfers to switch between systems, hauling with advanced variations, solving problems on rappels, descending with an injured partner, and more. While essential for any climber with big goals, this course can also be a great way to prepare for an AMGA Rock Guide Course. 

Learning Outcomes

During this course we will teach topics including:

• Tying hitches, including friction hitches, releasable and non-releasable rope hitches, and their uses 
• Lowering a climber from the top of a pitch, using only lightweight belay devices such as an ATC
• Using load transfers to perform rescues in multipitch terrain
• Multiple ways to haul a climber without specific progress capture equipment, including higher mechanical advantage systems
• What to do if you rappel past an anchor or can’t reach the next anchor
• Techniques for rappelling with an injured or unconscious partner
• Decision-making frameworks to apply rescue skills in unique, real-world situations

Prerequisites

• Has taken OITW “Self Rescue” Course 

OR...

• Has taken AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course 

OR...

• Knows how to tie into the rope for climbing
• Can independently perform safety checks before climbing
• Capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope
• Proficient top rope belayer with tube style (ATC) or assisted braking (GriGri) devices
• Proficient guide mode belayer (belaying a follower directly on the anchor from the top of a pitch) with tube style (ATC) or assisted braking (GriGri) devices
• Capable of building anchors on fixed hardware outdoors; leading experience recommended
• Knows how to rappel independently with an extended belay device and a friction hitch backup
• Capable of building a haul system with 3:1 mechanical advantage